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The Pomerape Volcano, (Summit of the Puma in Aymara) is situated in the middle of the Chilean Alti-Plano. It is the second highest
mountain in the Tarapacá Region and, being on the border with Bolivia, is the northernmost Six Thousand Metre Peak in Chile.
Geologically, it is older than its neighbour, the Parinacota Volcano which is situated immediately to its south-west. Together, they form
the Nevados de Payachata (Two Brothers in Aymara) which lie to the north of Lake Chungará and to the east of the Cotacotani Lagoons.
Both mountains are in the Lauca National Park which, together with the National Reserve Las Vicuñas and the Natural Monument Salar
de Surire, has been part of the Lauca Biosphere Reserve since 1981. The reserva is part of the UNESCO program Man and Biosphere.
This important designation was made due to the high floristic value of the area, the fact that there are still Aymaran communities living
there and that, together, these parks are a good representation of the fragile and unique Andean biodiversity.
The beauty of these volcanos is also due to the stories that surround them.The best-known legend of the Payachatas tells of a prince
and a princess from rival tribes who fell deeply in love. However, as their union was unthinkable for the two tribes, they were killed.
As revenge for this crime, nature made it rain intensely for many days and nights, producing great floods that washed away the tribes’
villages. In their place were formed Lake Chungará and the Cotacotani Lagoons. In the place the prince and princess were buried, two
beautiful volcanoes rose from the ground: Parinacota and Pomerape.
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Taking the international highway from Arica to La Paz (Ruta 11),
you head to Putre, the largest town close to Pomerape. It is of
interest as it dates from 1580 and is recommended as one of the
places for the process of acclimitisation. From Putre you follow Ruta
11 for about 44 km until the turning that leads to the town of
Caquena (A-165). After about 26 km, there is a turning that leads
south towards the volcano. The approach should be made skirting
around the western side of the Caquena bofedal. A 4x4 vehicle is
needed as the route is sandy and difficult to negotiate. Special care
should be taken to follow the existing track, in order to have the
least possible detrimental impact on the bofedal.
After leaving the bofedal, you arrive at a settlement called Rinconada
which consists of a few dry stone walls and the house of a man
who breeds cattle. From there you follow a straight line until the
base of the volcano where you can set up BC (4,840 m). |
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From BC start the ascent to the HC through the foothills of the
Parinacota Volcano which are characterised by the presence of
volcanic sand and strong winds. The HC (5,330 m) is located in the
pass between Parinacota and Pomerape which is nearly on the
border with Bolivia. From here you should ascend using the scree
slope for approximately 45 minutes and then continue ascending
on the glacier. The first 300 metres are on a gradient of no more
than 45º except for a 20 metre-high pass with a gradient of around
60º. Following this, there is an area of crevasses that are normally
covered in snow. It is very important to leave wands marking the
crevasses in this area for the descent.
Progress is quick until the bergshrund at 5,900 m as there is hard
snow throughout the entire route, although in certain places you
must be wary of corn snow and fragile snow bridges. At one side
of the bergschrund is a wall of ice that can be passed with a brief
climb. Once this is overcome, the gradient of the glaciar changes
to no more than 60º until you finally arrive at the approach to the
summit mushroom which has a gradient of no more than 70º.
A few metres above the bergshrund the south face becomes more
exposed which often leads to spindrift. The first part should be
climbed in a zig-zag with an ice axe and a walking pole. Try to forge
the route keeping to the right. To the left, the snow and the wind
hit you directly in the face.
Before arriving at the summit mushroom you will start to feel a
change in the gradient. From this point you start a direct climb
towards the summit.
The descent follows the same route as the ascent but should be
done slowly due to the gradient and formation of the ice that is
above the bergschrund. Because of this it is necessary to abseil down
the first thousand metres. For the first abseil you should use a snow
picket and then about nine snow bollards. Afterwards, the wands
fixed during the ascent will be a good guide for finding the exact
places to cross the crevasses. |
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• No special permits are required to climb Pomerape but you should
inform the police in Putre of your expedition, giving them a letter
showing participants, nationalities, passport or ID numbers, details
of activities and specific itineraries, dates, route and a map of the
area. As the mountain is on the border, foreigners must ask for
permission from DIFROL (Dirección Nacional de Fronteras y Límites
del Estado, Border Authority, www.difrol.cl).
• The best transport option is to take a 4x4 vehicle. See appendix
for recommendations.
• If you do not have your own transport, it is recommended that
you contact the Huamachuco Regiment in Putre a month in
advance of your expedition. This is done through the 6th division
of the Army in Iquique. The Army can offer support with transport,
accommodation and mountain guides.
• It is recommended to take equipment and clothing suitable for
high altitude mountaineering. As part of the equipment, it is
recommended to take snow and ice anchor equipment, ropes,
harness, ice axe and crampons.
• Take sufficient water for the whole expedition as there are no
permanent sources of water. In cases of extreme necessity it is
possible to find potable water in Rinconada.
• This area is affected by the so-called “Alti-Planic winter”, with an
unstable climate and intense precipitation between the months
of December and March. It is strongly recommended that you do
not climb during this period. The winter months (June - August)
are more stable but overnight temperatures are close to -30º C.
The spring months (September – December) are the most
recommended as the climate remains stable and the temperatures
are higher. |
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