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Parinacota means Lagoon of the Flamingos in the Aymara language. It is, at 6,342 m, the highest mountain in the Tarapacá Region.
It is one of the iconic images of Chile, especially the north of the country, and is often used in postcards. Together with the Pomerape
Volcano, it forms part of the Nevados de Payachata. Geologically, it is younger than its neighbour and because of its eruptive
characteristics, its shape, its geological history and its large glacier it is a potential source of great volcanic danger.
Its volcanic activity is very interesting because of the impact it has had on the scenery. At least five eruptive cycles have been identified
in its evolution but it has been 13,500 years since the eruption that had the largest impact. Avalanches of lava covered an area estimated
to be 110 km2, filling the valley of the upper course of the Lauca River and damming the waters which led to the birth of Lake Chungará
and the Cotacotani Lagoons . These turned into a refuge and home for diverse species and today have a rich and unique biodiversity.
Another peculiarity of Parinacota is its fumaroles, which are visible from a long distance away and are one of the volcano’s main
attractions. While beautiful, the fumaroles can also be dangerous. They contain a high percentage of sulphur which can be harmful
to the health if one is in close proximity them for long periods.
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Taking the international highway from Arica to La Paz (Ruta 11),
you head to Putre, the largest town close to Pomerape. It is of
interest as it dates from 1580 and is recommended as one of the
places for the process of acclimatisation. From Putre you follow Ruta
11 for about 44 km until the turning that leads to the town of
Caquena (A-165). After about 26 km there is a turning that leads
south towards the volcano. The approach should be made skirting
around the western side of the Caquena bofedal. A 4x4 vehicle is
needed as the route is sandy and difficult to negotiate. Special care
should be used to follow the existing track, in order to have the
least possible detrimental impact on the bofedal.
After leaving the bofedal, you arrive at a settlement called Rinconada
which consists of a few dry stone walls and the house of a man
who breeds cattle. From there, you continue until the base of the
volcano’s north face where you can set up BC (4,850 m). |
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From BC go up a small scree slope and then turn northwards,
following the existing path which is composed mainly of volcanic
sand. The volcano is a nearly perfect cone and therefore makes the
route quite clear. It is difficult to get lost if you ascend in a southerly
direction. You skirt the volcano through its north-west section and
then ascend up the side of a small gorge until reaching the snow
line at about 200 metres. You can set up HC here (5,470 m) although
it is exposed to the wind, and you therefore need to make sure the
tents are set up and anchored properly.
The ascent of Parinacota is long and you can encounter crevasses
en route, especially in the area close to the crater. Because of this,
you should plan an early start to ensure a descent during daylight.
Ascend in a straight line from the HC, skirting a field of penitentes
close to the snow line on the left. Avoiding this, you ascend, zigzagging,
on the large snow-field which allows you to arrive at a
small ‘island’
of bare ground from which you can ascend directly to
the summit.
To begin with, the gradient is near 30º but towards the
end increases
to 45º-50º. You then arrive at the edge of an enormous
crater.
You should circle it to the right until the highest point.
Even though the conical shape of the volcano has the advantage of
offering a clear view of the HC and the bofedal during the descent,
it is necessary to take into account that it is easy to get lost in
conditions of bad visibility. You should not, therefore, discount
marking the route with wands or a GPS during the ascent. |
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• No special permits are required to climb Parinacota but you should
inform the police in Putre of your expedition, giving them a letter
showing participants, nationalities, passport or ID numbers, details
of activities and specific itineraries, dates, route and a map of the
area. As the mountain is on the border, foreigners must ask for
permission from DIFROL (www.difrol.cl).
• The best transport option is to take a 4x4 vehicle. See appendix
for recommendations.
• If you do not have your own transport, it is recommended that
you contact the Huamachuco Regiment in Putre a month in
advance of your expedition. This is done through the 6th division
of the Army in Iquique. The Army can offer support with transport,
accommodation and mountain guides.
• The crossing of the crevasse near the summit must be done using
a fixed rope, given that the condition of the snow is not safe
enough for crossing without extra security.
• It is recommended to take equipment and clothing suitable for
high altitude mountaineering. As part of the equipment it is
recommended to take ropes, harness, ice axe and crampons.
• Take sufficient water for the whole expedition as there are no
permanent sources of water. In cases of extreme necessity it is
possible to find potable water in Rinconada.
• This area is affected by the so-called “Alti-Planic winter”, with an
unstable climate and intense precipitation between the months
of December and March. It is strongly recommended that you do
not climb during this period. The winter months (June - August)
are more stable but overnight temperatures are close to -30º C.
The spring months (September – December) are the most
recommended as the climate remains stable and the temperatures
are higher. |
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