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The Acotango Volcano, another of the attractions of the Lauca National Park, is the highest of the Nevados de Quimsachata (Three
Brothers in Aymara). This is a formation of three strata volcanoes running north to south on the border with Bolivia. The group also
includes the Humarata and Capurata mountains.
From 5,400 m upwards, Acotango is an ancient volcano whose period of maximum activity is estimated to have been 10,000 years
ago. The summit is now the eroded edge of what was a great crater, open towards the north, in the shape of an hitheatre. This
was the product of a great lateral explosion. It is considered to be an active volcano and has a glacier that covers its entire southern
flank. This onstitutes a danger due to the ever-present latent possibility of an eruption, which could lead to landslides and floods.
It is believed that Pedro Rosende, a Chilean explorer, found the remains of firewood at Acotango’s summit. Because of this, it is thought
that the mountain might avebeen one of the high Incan Andean sanctuaries. However, more exploration is needed to verify this
information.
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Taking the international highway from Arica to La Paz (Ruta 11) you
head to the town of Putre which, at 3,600 m, is one of the places
recommended for the process of acclimatisation. From Putre you
follow the same road towards Lake Chungará. There are two different
possible routes to take from here to the settlement of Churiguaya
(4,438 m), where it is possible to re-stock on potable water. This
settlement can be used as a reference point to get to the respective
BCs of Acotango, its two companions and also Guallatiri. One route
to Churiguaya is described here. The second is described in the
Guallatiri section.
Approximately 147 km along Ruta 11, around Las Cuevas, it is
possible to leave the main road on a dust road that is mainly used
by vehicles going to the Choquelimpe mine at the Surire Salt Lake.
Take this point as km 0. Via this route, you arrive directly at the town
of Guallatire, where it is possible to spend the night. The police here
should be informed about your expedition. To head towards Acotango
it is necessary to go back from Guallatire until you are 36 km from
Las Cuevas, where there is a sign that indicates the road north to
Churiguaya. Taking this route, at km 44 from Las Cuevas there is a
sign on the right of the road and, immediately after it, it is possible
to see a stunning view of the volcanoes as well as Churiguaya which
is close to a bofedal. The Guallatiri Volcano is directly behind
Churiguaya.
The ascending road forks after passing through Churiguaya. Taking
the left hand route you continue on a narrow track that was used
for access to the old sulphur mines. This road is in a reasonable state
of repair but can only be used by 4x4 vehicles. It leads to a flat,
sandy area where, at approximately km 56, the route forks to the
BCs of Acotango and Guallatiri. The road to Acotango goes north
and then turns east into the Plazuela Gully until it is blocked by the
landslide at km 62. The BC for Acotango can be set up in a flat area
here (5,050 m). |
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Walking on the disused track, which is sometimes blocked by landslides,
you descend until the eastern end of the Plazuela Gully. From there
you ascend again, straight on up a scree slope until a deep gorge
situated approximately in the middle of the mountain. Before getting
to the very bottom of the gorge the track rises again towards the
left ridge which leads to the edge of the glacier (5,400 m).
The first section of the glacier has penitentes, whose size varies
depending on the time of year. However, with some effort, it is
possible to overcome them, ascending about 150 metres on a
gradient averaging between 30º and 40º. Then the route turns
diagonally to the right until reaching a ridge at 5,680 metres. From
this point you can see the main summit. Follow the ridge which
snakes upwards and from which the summit can be reached.
The descent follows the same route as the ascent. |
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• No special permits are required to climb Acotango but you should
inform the police in Guallatire or in the Chungará border post of
your expedition, giving them a letter showing participants,
nationalities, passport or ID numbers, details of activities and
specific itineraries, dates, route and a map of the area. As the
mountain is on the border, foreigners must ask for permission
from DIFROL (www.difrol.cl).
• The best transport option is to take a 4x4 vehicle. See appendix
for recommendations.
• If you do not have you own transport, it is recommended that
you contact the Huamachuco Regiment in Putre a month in
advance of your expedition. This is done through the 6th division
of the Army in Iquique. The Army can offer support with transport,
accommodation and mountain guides.
• To advance on the glacier it is recommended to rope up and to
use crampons.
• The official maps of the area give the name of the settlement as
Churiguaya. However, the road sign says Chirigualla. They are,
however, describing the same place, where you can also find hot
springs.
• It is recommended to take equipment and clothing suitable for
high altitude mountaineering. As part of the equipment it is
recommended to take ropes, harness, ice axe and crampons.
• Take sufficient water for the whole expedition as the possible
water sources in Acotango are contaminated by the fumaroles
of Guallatiri.
• This area is affected by the so-called 'Alti-Planic winter', with an
unstable climate and intense precipitation between the months
of December and March. It is strongly recommended that you do
not climb during this period. The winter months (June - August)
are more stable but overnight temperatures are close to -30º C.
The spring months (September – December) are the most
recommended as the climate remains stable and the temperatures
are higher.
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