 |
| |
 |
| |
The Guallatiri Volcano (The Great Seam in Aymara) is located in the Putre area, entirely in Chilean territory. It is a neighbour of the
Nevados de Quimsachata, separated from them by the Plazuela Gully, and is one of the most active volcanoes in the region.
Since 1825, Guallatiri has erupted at least four times, the last time in 1985. Today it is still possible to see its fumaroles from several
places in the Parinacota area, the most active fumarole is located about 100 metres from the summit. There are five other points on
the southern slope of the central cone from where fumaroles also regularly escape.
Volcanoes that are as active and interesting as Guallatiri are enveloped in legends. Some say that Guallatiri and the Sajama and Tacora
volcanoes were handsome young men who wanted to be lovers with two beautiful twins. Sajama kidnapped one of the twins and
was confronted by Tacora. Sajama stabbed him in the stomach, leaving a spurting wound. After a long struggle, the God Pachacamac
turned them all into volcanoes, including the twins who in this legend are the Payachatas. It is said that Guallatiri remained in love
with the twins and if anyone looks at them for too long he becomes angry and fumaroles emanate from his crater. Sajama continues
to be arrogant and Tacora’s wound continues to spurt (the volcano’s deposits of sulphur). |
|
The same as for the Acotango Volcano, taking the international
highway from Arica to La Paz (Ruta 11) you head towards the town
of Putre which, at 3,600 m, is one of the places recommended for
the process of acclimatisation. From Putre you continue on the same
road towards Lake Chungará. There are two possible ways to reach
the settlement of Churiguaya (4,338 m), where it is possible to
replenish stocks of potable water. Churiguaya serves as a reference
for access to the respective BCs of Acotango, its two companions
and Guallatiri. It should be noted that a different route to Churiguaya
is described here than is described for Acotango.
Take Ruta 11 until Lake Chungará, where it is possible to stay in the
CONAF refugio at 4,600 m. From the refugio, you continue on the
road until the Chungará border post where you must alert the police
to your presence and register the members of your expedition. From
here, you take a secondary road to the area known as Chungará
Viejo (Old Chungará) which leads to the town of Churiguaya. The
dirt road heads south, skirting extensive bofedal, and the Nevados
de Quimsachata are visible for a large part of the journey.
Without leaving the road you arrive at the Churiguaya Hot Springs
which offer a great temptation to stop. A little further on, you will
see some road signs indicating Churiguaya.
Carrying on south-east, continue along a narrow track that was
used for the sulphur mines. The road is in a passable state but is
only suitable for 4x4s. It leads to a flat sandy area where the route
forks and separate roads lead to the BCs of Guallairtri and Acotango.
Continue until the base of the volcano where you can set up BC at
5,210 m. |
|
The ascent starts from the BC in a south-easterly direction towards
the summit, 2.8 km away. You ascend through a scree slope with
a gradient of approximately 45º. This route should lead to the first
high point which is marked with a cairn. From here it is possible to
see the summit. At this point you must turn east and ascend along
the right side of a band of rock which offers protection against the
wind and marks out the route of the ascent.
Having left the rocky band, you can see the entire dome which is
composed of snow and seracs. When you arrive at the edge of the
dome, located at 5,800 m, you can skirt around a band of rock
using a scree slope with a gradient of approximately 50º. You should
try to keep climbing on the scree slope to as high an altitude as is
possible.
Walking on the dome requires the use of crampons as the ascent
is made more difficult by the presence of small crevasses. The
combination of penitentes and sun cups in this area makes progress
difficult, but once at the top of the dome you can see the snowfield.
You can also see the summit and the fumarole. Be aware that if the
wind is coming from the north, the climb could be affected by the
smoke from the fumarole.
Once the snow ends, the final ascent of 80 metres begins. It is on
a scree slope with a 50º angle and passes about 200 metres from
the fumarole. At the end of the scree slope you begin the summit
ascent through volcanic rocks.
The descent is through the same zone used for the ascent, but
should be carried out with extreme care and precaution due to the
steepness of the route and the need to check the direction of the
wind in order to avoid the effects of the fumarole. |
|
• No special permits are required to climb Guallatiri but you should
inform the police in Guallatire or in the Chungará border post of
your expedition, giving them a letter showing participants,
nationalities, passport or ID numbers, details of activities and
specific itineraries, dates, route and a map of the area.
• The best transport option is to take a 4x4 vehicle. See appendix
for recommendations.
• If you do not have you own transport, it is recommended that
you contact the Huamachuco Regiment in Putre a month in
advance of your expedition. This is done through the 6th division
of the Army in Iquique. The Army can offer support with transport,
accommodation and mountain guides.
• The official maps of the area give the name of the settlement as
Churiguaya. However, the road sign says Chirigualla. They are,
however, describing the same place, where you can also find hot
springs.
• It is recommended to take equipment and clothing suitable for
high altitude mountaineering. As part of the equipment it is
recommended to take ropes, ice axe, crampons and trekking
poles.
• This area is affected by the so-called 'Alti-Planic winter', with an
unstable climate and intense precipitation between the months
of December and March. It is strongly recommended that you do
not climb during this period. The winter months (June - August)
are more stable but overnight temperatures are close to -30º C.
The spring months (September – December) are the most
recommended as the climate remains stable and the temperatures
are higher. |
|
|
|
