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Aucanquilcha, located in the surrounding area of the town of Ollagüe, is the orthernmost Six Thousand Metre Peak in the Antofagasta
Region. It is famous for having the highest mine in the world, located in its slopes at 5,580 m. Sulphur was extracted here until the
mine was closed in 1983. The town of Aucanquilcha is, at the same time, the highest mining town in the world, located to the northeast
of the mountain at 5,334 m.
This range of four peaks is a strata volcano. It is of scientific interest for its persistent fumarole activity which leaves large deposits of
sulphur. In its southern slopes there is a permanent covering of ice which, together with extensive moraine deposits at around 4,600
m, demonstrates the effect that glaciation has had on the mountains.
But the interest in this volcano does not end there. Aucanquilcha was also one of the high mountain sanctuaries for the Incas. Two
ceremonial circles have been found at its summit as well as remains of llareta.
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From Calama, take the international highway that leads to Bolivia
via Ollagüe (Ruta 21) in the direction of Chiu-Chiu. After Chiu-Chiu
the road changes into a dust road. It is in good condition and follows
the eastern side of the Loa River. Approximately 100 km from Calama,
following the road towards Ollagüe, is the village of Ascotán (3,900
m) where it is necessary to register expedition members at the police
station.
Arriving at Ollagüe, it is necessary to take a secondary road in a
westerly direction which leads to Amincha, the station used to
transfer Aucanquilcha’s sulphur. Even though there are other ways
to approach the mountain, for safety reasons it is better to take this
longer route so as to be sure not to become lost.
In Amincha, it is recommended to walk from the station to a pile
of stones which is about 100 metres north. From there, it is possible
to view the route which leads towards the summit. The route can
be seen clearly and you can even see the remains of a truck halfway
up the road and the mine’s chair-lift.
The route which leads from Amincha towards the sulphur works
has not been well used since the works were closed and the effects
of the Alti-Planic winter have led to a marked deterioration in some
sections. Ideally, you should take your vehicle as far as possible
towards the work’s chair-lift station b ut due to frequent landslides
it is very likely that you will only be able to reach an intermediate
point. The climbers on our expedition continued for approximately
13 km until 5,110 m where they established BC, taking special care
regarding landslides from the slopes. If it is not possible to take this
road at all, Amincha is a good place to establish BC. |
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The ascent starts from BC, going up the gully parallel to the line of
the chair-lift until you reach the shoulder of the gully at 5,800 m.
From here, it is possible to check that the real summit is in view. The
false summit has an area of frozen sulphur that might slow down
the climb but, in general, the route towards the summit is quite
clear.
The descent is quite fast and fluid, using the steep scree slope on
the north face which allows you to return to BC before sunset. |
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• No special permits are required to climb Aucanquilcha but you
should inform the police in the station in Ascotán of your expedition,
giving them a letter showing participants, nationalities, passport
or ID numbers, details of activities and specific itineraries, dates,
route and a map of the area.
• The best transport option is to take a 4x4 vehicle. See appendix
for recommendations.
• If you do not have your own transport it is recommended that
you contact Regimiento Reforzado No 1 Topater in Calama and
the respective PARME (Patrulla de Rescate de Montaña del Ejército,
Army Mountain Rescue Patrol) to ask for support. It is also possible
to get accommodation at the Topater Regiment.
• A good transport option is offered by Manuel González in Calama
(mobile: 87439321), who has a great knowledge of the area and
mountain activities.
• There is mobile phone coverage available at BC (5,100 m). It
comes from the signal of the Doña Inés mine in Coyahuasi.
• It is recommended to take equipment and clothing suitable for
high altitude mountaineering. As part of the equipment it is
recommended to take an ice axe and crampons.
• Take sufficient water for the whole expedition as the limited snow
is contaminated with sulphur. There are no sources of potable
water in Ollagüe, Ascotán or Cebollar and there are no signs of
permanent water in Amincha.
• This area is affected by the so-called 'Alti-Planic winter', with an
unstable climate and intense precipitation between the months
of December and March. It is strongly recommended that you do
not climb during this period. The winter months (June - August)
are more stable but overnight temperatures are close to -30º C.
The spring months (September – December) are the most
recommended as the climate remains stable and the temperatures
are higher. |
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