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This great volcano, like its younger brother San Pablo, is an essential trip for anyone looking for high altitude in the Andean Alti-Planic
system. It is found in Chile’s Second Region and is visible from Calama, being situated roughly 75 km from the city. It is located entirely
within Chilean territory, in the basin of the Loa River.
It is geologically very interesting that San Pedro has two cones that show different stages of formation than the rest of the volcano
in terms of their composition and structure. The older cone (that forms the actual summit) was affected by glacial erosion and is
therefore a little steeper than the younger one which was formed during the post-glacial period and is located inside the amphitheatre
of the first cone. They have had several recorded eruptions, in 1877, in 1891, and again in 1901.
The avalanches from the 1901
eruption damaged the railway to La Paz. Even though the last registered eruption was over 100 years ago, it is still possible to see
fumaroles coming from the crater of the younger cone. There is also a parasitical cone at the western side of the base, eight kilometres
from San Pedro, which is known as La Poruña. This is a smaller cone and is described as parasitical as it gives out material from the
same source as San Pedro.
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As San Pedro and San Pablo are linked by a pass from where it is
possible to access either summit, the access information will be the
same for both mountains until this pass.
From Calama, take the international highway that leads to Bolivia
via Ollagüe (Ruta 21) in the direction of Chiu-Chiu. After Chiu-Chiu
the road changes into a dust road. It is in good condition and follows
the eastern side of the Loa River. From there, it is only a few kilometres
until it is possible to see the San Pedro and San Pablo volcanoes.
About 30 km from Chiu-Chiu, there is an intersection with an interior
road which you must take in an easterly direction towards the town
of Incaliri. The road meets the San Pedro River on its southern bank
and you should follow it until you reach a small bridge that crosses
the river and allows you to continue driving through the foothills
of the San Pedro Volcano towards the pass. The road is sandy and
difficult to negotiate. You should follow it as far as you can, taking
special care to find the existing route and to follow it, in order to
have the least possible impact on the vegetation. On our expedition,
BC was set up close to some cairns located at 4,000 m, but with a
good vehicle it is possible to reach close to 4,500 m. |
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From BC, the route follows a track that stays close to San Pedro,
ascending its south-east slope and heading towards the pass between
the two volcanoes. Close to 4,500 m, you have to try to stay to the
left of the San Pedro Gully that descends from the pass and not
deviate too much from the existing path.
To facilitate the ascent it is recommended to set up a C1 close to
4,600 m, which will divide the ascent into three days and make it
less strenuous. Before arriving at the pass it is necessary to avoid
some small cliffs that sometimes have ice cascades. The route skirts
to the left, then crosses to the right to finally arrive at the pass
(5,300 m), where you can set up HC.
Looking from the HC in a westerly direction you can clearly see the
slope that allows you to access the summit. In the final stretch there
are some rocks you will have to climb and a loose scree slope. The
summit lies east of the crater. Due to the fact that the crater is active,
there are green and gold colours and a strong smell of sulphur.
The descent follows the same route as the ascent. |
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• No special permits are required to climb San Pedro but you should
inform the police in Calama of your expedition, giving them a
letter showing participants, nationalities, passport or ID numbers,
details of activities and specific itineraries, dates, route and a map
of the area.
• The best transport option is to take a 4x4 vehicle. See appendix
for recommendations.
• If you do not have your own transport it is recommended that
you contact Regimiento Reforzado No 1 Topater in Calama and
the respective PARME (Patrulla de Rescate de Montaña del Ejército,
Army Mountain Rescue Patrol) to ask for support. It is also possible
to get accommodation at the Topater Regiment.
• A good transport option is offered by Manuel González in Calama
(mobile: 87439321), who has a great knowledge of the area and
mountain activities.
• It is recommended to take equipment and clothing suitable for
high altitude mountaineering. As part of the equipment it is
recommended to take an ice axe and crampons.
• The water in the San Pedro River is potable. Before crossing the
river you should look to see if there is sufficient snow in the areas
of BC and C1 to evaluate whether it is necessary or not to bring
water.
• This area is affected by the so-called 'Alti-Planic winter', with an
unstable climate and intense precipitation between the months
of December and March. It is strongly recommended that you do
not climb during this period. The winter months (June - August)
are more stable but overnight temperatures are close to -30º C.
The spring months (September - December) are the most
recommended as the climate remains stable and the temperatures
are higher. |
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