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The original name of the Pili Volcano, located in the Antofagasta region, was Acamarachi (Stone Snail in Aymara). From its foothills,
you can see the beautiful and little-known Salt Lake of Pujsa which is inhabited at certain times of the year by colonies of flamingos
and groups of vicuñas. The summit offers an impressive view of the Láscar, Aguas Calientes and Licancabur volcanoes.
Of an imposing and beautiful shape, it is estimated that this inactive strata volcano is less than 15,000 years old. It is characterised by
its symmetrical slopes that in places are steeper than 45º. The Pili River, inside the gully of the same name, runs from the south-east
of the mountain towards the Aguas Calientes Salt Lake.
500 years ago, this mountain was one of the Incan high mountain sanctuaries and the summit was the scene of sacred ceremonies.
Two human-shaped statuttes have been found with their respective trousseaus, one of which is now in the British Museum in London.
The remains of firewood, locks of hair and even butterflies have also been found.
However, despite its history, its beauty and the splendid panoramic views that it offers, Pili is not visited very often these days.
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From Calama, take the international road to Argentina (Ruta 23)
until San Pedro de Atacama. From here you should take Ruta 27
which leads to Argentina via the Jama border crossing. An hour
from San Pedro you can make out Pili, at whose feet lies the Pujsa
Salt Lake, on the right hand side of the road.
At the end of the salt lake, just where you can see a gas pipeline,
the road turns to the left. It is necessary to leave the road in a
southerly direction to make your way towards the salt lake and to
skirt around it on its left-hand side. The journey from this point until
BC takes approximately an hour. You should skirt around the
mountains until crossing the first gully.
This gully is deceptive as you can see Pili at its end which leads you
to believe that this is the point of entry, but you should ignore it.
Instead, cross the river and skirt around the bottom of Cerro Negro
until you enter the next gully that leads towards the volcano. While
it is possible to reach approximately 4,900 m by vehicle, it is
recommended to set up BC at the end of this gully (4,580 m),
specifically in a place with a large erratic block and rocks where it
is possible to tell that camp has been set up before. On the day of
the summit ascent it is recommended to drive the remaining stretch
in your vehicle. |
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From where you leave the vehicle (4,900 m), you should start the
walk towards the shoulder as early as possible, taking into
consideraton that there are no tracks and that you need to progress
in a zig-zag due to the steepness of the slope. At the shoulder, from
where you can see two dry lagoons, it is necessary to change
direction, following the western slope.
The first thing that you will notice is a large scree-slope that falls
from a couloir. It would seem that the route goes up the left ridge
of the couloir, but in fact you should go straight up through the
scree slope, keeping to its right hand side.
Following this, there are some large rocks that ease the climb, but
then the ground becomes extremely soft and the ascent becomes
slow and laborious. Finally, the slope eases off a little and you can
advance until observing the summit which is the left hand side of
the north peak. Here it is possible to find a good place to rest and
re-hydrate before beginning the final ascent.
The descent is fast, following the same route used in the ascent. |
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• No special permits are required to climb Pili but you should inform
the police in San Pedro de Atacama of your expedition, giving
them a letter showing participants, nationalities, passport or ID
numbers, details of activities and specific itineraries, dates, route
and a map of the area.
• The best transport option is to take a 4x4 vehicle. See appendix
for recommendations. Take sufficient fuel in Calama as the supply
in San Pedro is not always assured.
• If you do not have your own transport it is recommended that
you contact Regimiento Reforzado No 1 Topater in Calama and
the respective PARME (Patrulla de Rescate de Montaña del Ejército,
Army Mountain Rescue Patrol) to ask for support. It is also possible
to get accommodation at the Topater Regiment.
• A good transport option is offered by Manuel González in Calama
(mobile: 87439321), who has a great knowledge of the area and
mountain activities.
• You should buy provisions in Calama as San Pedro is the only
other place where small quantities of provisions can be bought.
• It is recommended to take equipment and clothing suitable for
high altitude mountaineering. As part of the equipment it is
recommended to take an ice axe and crampons.
• Take sufficient water for the whole expedition as the stream at
BC is contaminated with arsenic and there are no permanent
sources of potable water.
• This area is affected by the so-called 'Alti-Planic winter', with an
unstable climate and intense precipitation between the months
of December and March. It is strongly recommended that you do
not climb during this period. The winter months (June - August)
are more stable but overnight temperatures are close to -30º C.
The spring months (September – December) are the most
recommended as the climate remains stable and the temperatures
are higher. |
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