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Also known as Cerro Azufre (Sulphur Mountain) this volcano is located entirely in Chilean territory and is part of a second section of
the Nevado Tres Cruces National Park. It is very popular amongst the climbers who visit the massifs of Chile’s Third Region. Its popularity
is due to its direct access, its surroundings and that, at its summit and areas around it, vestiges of Incan culture have been found. These
include a tiled ceremonial platform and human-shaped silver statuettes with accessories made of feathers.
This solitary mountain in the Atacama Desert is a strata volcano with no registered past eruptions. However, it is known that it was
once very active. This is reflected in the presence of seven ‘parasitic’ cones, which were born as a consequence of intense activity that
must have happened in the main crater. |
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The access route to Copiapó is, in part, the same as for Los Patos.
Taking the city of Copiapó as a point of departure, head towards
and then take the international road, Ruta 31, that leads to Argentina
via the San Francisco border crossing.
At the San Luis mine the road intersects with a secondary road that
leads to La Puerta and Santa Rosa Lagoon. Continue on the secondary
road, which borders the Maricunga Salt Lake, in a north-easterly
direction, until coming to another road that runs in a north-south
direction. This road connects the Maricunga Salt Lake with the Negro
Francisco Lagoon which is also part of the Nevado Tres Cruces
National Park. You should take this road south.
Continue for approximately 25 km on this road until you find a
marshland or lagoon on the right side of the road. Immediately next
to it is a road, running south-west, that leads to the Villalobos Gully
which allows access to the Copiapó Volcano. This road passes an
abandoned mine and continues as a track for 4x4 vehicles. The track
is in relatively good condition and goes through plains and marshes
with a rich birdlife until the end of the gully where you can see the
Copiapó Volcano. This road is approximately 15 km.
BC can be set up at the end of the gully at 4,100 m, where the track
ends.
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Due to the large number of team members on our expedition it was
necessary to establish two camps, described later, apart from BC.
But if your team has fewer people it is possible to set up only BC
and HC.
The ascent starts from BC, through expanses of desert until where,
on this expedition, C1 was set up under some cliffs at approximately
4,400 m. This hike takes roughly two hours.
From C1, follow the road up to 4,700 m, for which it is first necessary
to skirt the C1 cliff on its right hand side and continue the ascent
in a southerly direction. The place to establish HC is easily
distinguishable as there are traces of past expeditions, such as small
cairns and flat areas for tents. It is a site that is well protected from
the wind, which normally comes from west to east, and is at the
end of a plateau that has a large area of rocks. On the left, a snow
field descends and then narrows until petering out.
The route continues from the HC in a westerly direction towards a
large couloir which it is possible to see from the base of the volcano
when you study the overall route. At this height, the terrain is quite
sandy and with fine gravel, rarely presenting rocks of a larger size.
The couloir has a slope of 40º and is the route by which you should
ascend until the passes and terrain before the summit. The rocky
areas on the left side of the couloir, which facilitate a large part of
the ascent, turn into cliffs when you approach 5,400 m. This obliges
you to continue the route through the centre of the couloir, which
eventually narrows to about two metres width and therefore allows
you to advance more quickly.
The couloir ends in an amphitheatre at 5,800 m, from where the
slope eases and it is possible to see the false summits and passes
that lead to the summit. From here, turn right, towards a pass that
leads to the south-west and which has small snow fields. A little
further on it is possible to make out one of the Incan ruins that have
made the volcano famous, and the ridge that leads in a southerly
direction to the summit. This ridge has a marked Incan path that
leads to where you can see the second Incan ruins that were found
on the Copiapó Volcano. The route to the summit continues clearly
and without great difficulties along the ridge.
The descent follows the same route as the ascent.
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• No special permits are required to climb Copiapó but you should
inform the police in the city of Copiapó of your expedition, giving
them a letter showing participants, nationalities, passport or ID
numbers, details of activities and specific itineraries, dates, route
and a map of the area.
• The best transport option is to take a 4x4 vehicle. See appendix
for recommendations. Buy sufficient fuel in Copiapó as there are
no other places to buy it during the rest of the journey.
• If you do not have your own transport it is recommended to send
a letter asking for support to the headquarters of the Army 1st
division in Antofagasta (Av. Ejército 01180, Antofagasta). Once
approved it will be sent to the 23rd Regiment in Copiapó, which
will co-ordinate the support.
• Another option is a transport service from Copiapó. Among the
companies that offer the service are Aventurismo (52-235340 /
mobile: 99694654, who also offer transport from Laguna Verde
to the various mountains), Gran Atacama Tour Operador (52-
219271, www.granatacama.cl) and Atacama Chile Tour Operador
(mobile: 98723652, www.atacamachile.com).
• It is recommended to take equipment and clothing suitable for
high altitude mountaineering. As part of the equipment it is
recommended to take an ice axe and crampons.
• Take sufficient water for the whole expedition from the city of
Copiapó.
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