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The Nevado de Olivares is located on the border with Argentina, at a latitude similar to the coastal town of Tongoy. Despite its clear
and direct access through the road that links La Serena with Argentina, it hardly ever receives visitors due to its isolated position, in a
little-known and little explored mountain system.
Olivares is located in the Andean system of the Coquimbo Region. It doesn’t show any sign of volcanism and all its extensive snow
fields flow into Argentine territory. Just like a large part of the Andes, this mountain originated from a long, complex process of pressure
in the earth’s layers. The high massifs that can be seen today were generated by long periods of telluric movement, folding of the
earth’s crust, erosive processes and times of crustal uplift. Olivares is geologically young and its shape reflects that it hasn’t suffered
much erosion. |
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From the city of Vicuña, located 62 km to the east of La Serena,
continue on Route 41 until Juntas del Toro, a stretch that takes
approximately an hour and a half in a vehicle. Here there is a police
station and a border post where you must register the expedition.
From Juntas del Toro continue to the Aguas Negras border crossing
on a road that is in relatively good state and from where you can
see amazing scenery at the La Laguna reservoir. The approach by
vehicle can continue until the foot of the Cajón de Infiernillos Gully,
where there is a small stream that allows the existence of the scarce
vegetation in the area. The approach on foot begins here, following
the stream and a well-marked path which leads into the gully without
presenting many difficulties.
BC can be set up close to the end of the gully at 4,000 m. From
here it is possible to see Olivares towards the east and analyse the
route of ascent. |
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From BC start walking towards Olivares through a gully that extends
down from the mountain to the stream. Once at the foothills of the
mountain it is not possible to see the summit, but you can see the
ridge and the route towards C1 and C2. Given that the stretch to
C1 is long and quite demanding due to the characteristics of the
terrain, which is composed of many loose rocks with some complicated
slopes, it is recommended to start as early as possible in the morning.
C1 can be set up at a terrace at approximately 4,860 m. This area,
despite having been expanded by our expedition, can still be too
small to set up several tents.
The route that continues from C1 goes mainly through terrain of
soft rocky material that is difficult to pass. It goes along some rocky
walls that can be seen from the foothills of the mountain. It is a
strenuous day and the area where C2 (5,490 m) is set up is not very
comfortable as it is quite a small natural terrace. It is known as Piedra
Plana (Flat Stone), and to arrive here it is necessary to turn towards
the rocky area on the right of the walls that you have been following.
From C2 it is necessary to start walking straight up through terrain
with lots of very loose rocks until arriving at a rocky pass that you
have to climb using your hands. The route continues towards the
couloirs that you see above you. You must take the right hand
couloir as the ascent route. On leaving the couloir you can clearly
see the route towards the summit, which passes through less steep
terrain that ends in a long scree slope.
After overcoming this scree slope, you pass through an area of rocks
where there are two false summits from which you can see the real
summit towards the south-east.
The descent is carried out using the same route as the ascent.
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• No special permits are required to climb Olivares but you should
inform the police in Juntas del Toro of your expedition, giving
them a letter showing participants, nationalities, passport or ID
numbers, details of activities and specific itineraries, dates, route
and a map of the area. As the mountain is on the border, foreigners
must ask for permission from DIFROL (www.difrol.cl).
• It is recommended to make the approach in a 4x4 vehicle until
the Cajón de Infiernillos. See appendix for recommendations.
• It is recommended to take equipment and clothing suitable for
high altitude mountaineering. As part of the technical equipment
it is suggested to take wands, ropes, ice axe and crampons.
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