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Nevado Juncal is the only mountain over 6,000 m in the Valparaíso Region. It is an enormous massif constituting four summits of which
the highest is on the border with Argentina. It is also the meeting point for large glacier systems that come from its four summits,
creating a landscape without comparison amongst its neighbours.
Its imposing aspect, white and impenetrable, makes it one of the most beautiful and technically complex mountains in the Central
Andes. Few mountains, especially those that are located in the Central Chilean Andes, have such a snowy, glaciated and steep north
face as the Nevado Juncal. Glaciologists from different areas of the world have come here to investigate it in detail.
Geologically, it is an old mountain in relation to the average age of the Central Andes. This is evident in its sharp ridges, produced by
the intense erosion to which it has been exposed.
* Editor’s Note: Even though Juncal has historically been considered aSix Thousand Metre Peak, the official altitude of the summit is still notclear. In the IGM 1:50,000 map the name of Juncal is assigned to theNevado El Plomo and in the mountain range where Juncal should beit is only possible to see Cumbre Chilena (5,953 m) and Cumbre Sur(5,925 m). The area of the main summit is without estereoscopic vision–and therefore does not give any information on altitude. The officialaltitude given in this book is according to the maps of Luis Lliboutry. |
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Taking the city of Los Andes as a point of departure, head to the
border on the international road General San Martín (Ruta 60). Ten
km before arriving at the ski centre of Portillo is the Cajon del Juncal,
which you enter on a dirt track that begins on the right side of the
main road in a southerly direction. This road is after a small settlement
and before beginning the ascent to Portillo. It can be driven in a
normal car but it crosses a river that at times can only be passed in
a 4x4. The road leads to the sector of Los Hornos de la Yesera, which
has a couple of abandoned stone houses next to a small marsh,
from where you can see an incredible view of the Nevado Juncal
and Alto Los Leones mountains. Vehicles cannot go further than
this point and you should continue the approach on foot until the
glacier tongue.
The route continues to a wooden bridge that crosses the river, from
where you proceed on a gentle slope until the La Chépica sector
and then a sector of moraine where the track is stopped by the
Monos de Aguas Stream. Depending on the time of year, the current
of this stream can be quite strong and it is recommended to cross
it early in the morning. A little further on, there is a cairn next to
the road where it is advisable to set up an ApC (no registered
waypoints). This place has a complete view of the Nevado Juncal
and the surrounding mountains and it is a good place to familiarise
yourself with the route.
From this point, you continue the approach in the direction of Juncal,
following the path, which is eventually lost in the moraine and in
the ice around the Juncal Norte Glacier. Once the path disappears
you should make your way to the centre of the glacier which has
the flattest and safest area that permits you to advance more quickly.
You should climb to the left of a large moraine, taking care with
the stones that can fall from the slope that borders the moraine.
The length of the glacier tongue is about three to four km. When
you are close to an area of seracs it is necessary to exit the glacier
as quickly as possible from its left edge, taking care not to expose
yourself to possible ice falls from the seracs. BC (3,370 m) is set up
at the side of the seracs, under some cliffs, and you can get there
by climbing about 100 metres through a gully that is underneath
the east slope of the mountain. |
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From BC, you ascend through a scree slope of a moderate gradient
until arriving at the sector where you set up C1 at 3,880 m. Once
at C1, you should study the area known as Flechas Verdes (Green
Arrows), which is the cliff situated under the base of the glacier that
runs parallel to the Juncal Norte Glacier. There are painted green
arrows that mark the route for the ascent but there are at least two
more possible routes depending on the climatic conditions and the
time of year. It is therefore recommended that you establish which
is the safest route before you leave C1. It is even recommended to
explore all these routes first to give yourself better criteria with which
to decide the route to take. Just before the cliff, there is a hard and
steep snow field that needs the use of crampons, which you only
cross until its middle, where it is possible to re-climb on the rock.
The sector is quite exposed and therefore requires special care.
Once passed this stretch, you arrive at the base of the glacier, which
is very exposed to rock falls and has a slope close to 50º at its
narrowest part. While this pass does not require much technical
ability you need some experience on ice. It is, furthermore,
recommended to make the crossing early in the morning to avoid
the hours closest to midday which have the largest risk of falling
rocks. In this area there are also several routes, but the safest one
is quite obvious.
Once you are on the glacier you must pass some narrow crevasses,
through a soft and moderate slope. A little higher up, there is an
enormous bergschrund that is at the foot of the couloir that leads
towards C2, located at 4,700 m. In case it is necessary to set up an
intermediate camp, there is a terrace at 4,275 m which forms part
of a spur and is ideal as it is free from the risk of avalanches and
rock falls (see waypoints).
Between the terraces and C2 the slope is moderate to strong but
is a relatively easy stretch where the largest precaution you have to
take is against rock falls. The final part of the couloir takes you to
an extraordinarily soft scree slope of about 100 metres in length.
From C2, the ascent can be direct to the summit or you can consider
a HC at 5,354 m as we did on our expedition. The route skirts the
rock and then a glacier. When you arrive at 5,000 m, there is a
bergschrund that you should skirt to the left and which marks the
halfway point of the route between C2 and the HC. At 5,150 m the
glacier becomes less steep, facilitating the arrival at HC from where
you can see the summit.
For the last stretch you have to leave the glacier to the right, so you
can reach the summit ridge from where the route is direct and
where there is also a faint path that ascends the ridge between
loose rocks and snow.
The descent follows the same route as the ascent.
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• No special permits are required to climb Nevado Juncal but you
should inform the police in Guardia Vieja of your expedition,
giving them a letter showing participants, nationalities, passport
or ID numbers, details of activities and specific itineraries, dates,
route and a map of the area. As the mountain is on the border,
foreigners require permission from DIFROL (www.difrol.cl).
• It is recommended to bring sandals or sports shoes for the river
crossings. The crossing of the Monos de Aguas Stream can be
done jumping on large rocks that are above the path. In case it
is not possible to cross by jumping, because of the river current
or the characteristics of the team, it is possible to advance upstream
until where the river is less deep and permits crossing.
• The route from C1 is steep and ascends on snow during cold
seasons but in summer it remains bare, obliging you to climb
through rock. In this area it is possible to find crevasses and
bergschrunds there is also the possibility that rocks will fall from
the cliffs.
• The glacier tongue doesn’t present many obstacles and is relatively
easy to pass. In spring, however, the crevasses are covered in
snow and this can make it less safe to cross the surface.
• In the summit area the glacier is covered in snow all year and it
is therefore necessary to use rope, as there are many crevasses
here and they are rarely visible.
• It is recommended to take equipment and clothing suitable for
high altitude mountaineering. As part of the equipment it is
recommended to take snow and ice anchors and rescue equipment,
ropes, harness, ice axe and crampons.
• It is recommended to hire mules for the transport of equipment.
José Tobar, the muleteer, has mules and horses available during
the summer months. The only way of contacting him is going to
his house at least a week in advance of your expedition, in the
buildings of the ex-police station Saladillo. Other options are Luis
Astudillo, who works in the area of the Hermanos Clark station,
and Hugo Montenegro (34-481164).
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