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Nevado El Plomo is one of the Six Thousand Metre Peaks about which there is very little information. It is on the border with Argentina
and situated in the Metropolitan Region. Despite the fact it is hard to see from the nearby towns, it is easily recognisable for mountaineers
due to its pyramidal shape and dark tones.
It is important to note that in the official IGM maps Nevado El Plomo appears under the name Nevado Juncal. |
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The Nevado El Plomo requires a long approach that includes ascents
in altitude. For this reason, for our expedition, there is a description
of a BC for the beginning of the ascent and an AdvancedBC for the
beginning of the ascent of the mountain.
From the city of Santiago head towards the Cajón del Maipo on
Ruta G-25 until crossing the bridge over the Colorado River, where
you have to take the turning that leads to the Alfalfal hydro-electric
plant, owned by the AES Gener company. The road to the mountain
continues through the grounds of the hydro-electric plant. You
therefore require a permit that must be organised in advance, as
explained in the recommendations. After passing the plant’s entrance
barrier, follow the road that leads to the Alfalfal water inlet where
you must leave your vehicle. Here begins one of the stretches of the
national project “Sendero de Chile”. Continue on foot and ideally
with mules, which should also be organised in advance.
From this point, there is a relatively well-marked path that follows
the west side of the fast-flowing Olivares River. It leads to a large
waterfall, roughly 30 km away. Halfway along the route you pass
through the Honda Marshes from where you can see the famous
“Paso del Cepo” that links this gorge with Piedra Numerada (where
an approach camp can be set up for the popular Cerro Plomo, in
the surroundings of the La Parva ski centre). From here it is also
possible to see privileged views of the Tronco (5,600 m) and Esmeralda
(4,535 m) mountains and, furthest away, Juncal Chico (5,720 m).
After about eight hours walk, including some not very deep river
crossings, you arrive at the large Olivares Waterfall. BC should be
set up just before the point where two rivers, which come from the
glaciers of Juncal Sur and Olivares, meet. You have to cross the river
before the rivers diverge. The glaciers are separated by the so-called
Loma Rabona, a magnificent geographical accident with a vertical
cliff of a little over 600 metres, where there are two enormous
waterfalls. It is recommended that the river crossing is done first
thing in the morning as the current can be quite dangerous. The
force of current depends, in part, on the time of year of the expedition
and the time of day you make the crossing. In any case, given the
conditions of the river, it is recommended that the mules carry the
rucksacks for the crossing, on the return as well as on the approach.
It is important to clarify that the mules can only go until this point.
hasta este punto. |
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Before starting the ascent to the waterfall it is recommended to
take sufficient water from the river as it is a long ascent of
approximately 10 hours in which you will climb 1,000 metres carrying
a heavy weight. It is possible to divide this ascent into two days but
it is not really recommended as there is generally no water until
3,800 m, unless there are some patches of snow.
The route goes to the right of the waterfall, on an old muleteer
path that once had iron cables and wooden steps that allowed the
mules to advance about 2 km further. For greater security it is
recommended to install a hand line for some stretches of the ascent.
After about 10 hours walking, and after having passed the remains
of an old refugio, you start to leave Loma Rabona behind and obtain
a more complete view of the Juncal Glacier, which is the longest in
Chile outside of the ice fields in Patagonia. Here there is a plateau
next to a stream that has some remains of German and Spanish
expeditions from the second half of the last century, and which is
an ideal place to set up C1 (3,800 m).
The last stretch until the end of the Juncal Sur Glacier, in the area
of Juncal Chico, is the last part of the approach and is where you
set up the AdvancedBC at 4,200 m, on the glacier.
Continuing the ascent, just before reaching the end of the gully you
should take the north-west face of El Plomo on a long scree slope
that slopes to the right, under some crags that accompany the
ascent until the place where the HC can be set up at 5,200 m (no
registered waypoints).
From here the route is quite clear and without technical difficulties,
even though there are some stretches where it is necessary to
clamber, using your hands. However, there is an area at approximately
5,500 m, where you have to negotiate the cliffs that lead to the
summit ridge. You can do this by going up the left hand edge of a
scree slope which can be climbed without major problems.
The same route is used for the descent as for the ascent.
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• No special permits are required to climb Nevado El Plomo but
permits are needed to go through the installations of the Alfalfal
hydro-electric plant and to access the main route of the Olivares
River. For this, you will need to first ask permission from the
Ministerio de Bienes Nacionales (www.bienes.cl) sending a copy
of the permit to Max Mardones of the company AES Gener,
telephone (56 2) 686 8140), fax (56 2) 680 8131. It is recommended
to do this well in advance.
• You should also inform the police in San José de Maipo of your
expedition, giving them a letter showing participants, nationalities,
passport or ID numbers, details of activities and specific itineraries,
dates, route and a map of the area.
• The best transport option is to take a 4x4 vehicle. See appendix
for recommendations.
• It is recommended to take equipment and clothing suitable for
high altitude mountaineering. As part of the equipment it is
recommended to take ropes, harness, ice axe and crampons.
• It is recommended to take mules to transport the equipment
during the approach and the return journey. Jacinto Ortega is the
most experienced muleteer in the area. He lives in the town of
Maitenes (before Alfalfal) and it is necessary to organise things
with him before your expedition takes place.
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