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Tupungato is the highest mountain in the Central Andes, much higher than its closest neighbours. It is situated 64 km to the east of
Santiago, on the border with Argentina, although it is not visible from the city.
It is popular among mountaineers and it has become known as a classic mountain of the Chilean Andes, despite paradoxically being
visited by more foreigners than Chilean climbers.
It is an extinct strata volcano whose crater, three km in diameter, is easily visible from far away. It has extensive glaciers that partially
cover the top of the mountain and the slope on its Argentine side.
Although Tupungato holds no Incan mysteries, it has other tales to tell. A well-known story is that a British company’s passenger plane
crashed in its foothills in 1947. It was only after 44 years, in 1991, that two mountaineers accidentally found its engine. This provoked
an expedition to finally find the rest of the plane and its occupants. |
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From the city of Santiago head towards the Cajón del Maipo on
Ruta G-25 until crossing the bridge over the Colorado River, where
you have to take the turning that leads to the Alfalfal hydro-electric
plant, owned by the AES Gener company. The road to the mountain
continues through the grounds of the hydro-electric plant. You
therefore require a permit that must be organised in advance, as
explained in the recommendations. After passing the plant’s entrance
barrier, follow the road for 25 km until you come to a fork whose
left hand option leads to the La Perla mine. You should take the
right hand option and after a short drive you come to a turning
signed for Estero Chacayes which you need to take. The road passes
through a settlement and then turns and heads into the valley. Just
before the road descends to a water inlet it is possible to see a wellmarked
path that begins on the right side of the road. Here you can
leave your vehicle.
The approach continues on this path that follows the south bank
of the Colorado River. After two hours of walking, the Museo Valley
opens up on your right and, after a small descent, you arrive at the
area of Baños Azules, where there are pools, very close to the Museo
River, caused by springs of mineralized water. Here it is possible to
set up ApC 1 (2,450 m).
Start early from ApC1, crossing the river using the large rocks as a
natural bridge. The route continues on the left bank of the Museo
River, rising until the ridge of a small hill known as Pan de Azúcar.
After the ridge the route descends to the edge of the Azufre River.
It is also necessary to cross this river, for which you can use a bridge
which, while being in quite a bad state, has served for other
expeditions. However, it is still recommended to check its state
carefully before using it.
After crossing the river, the route will ascend several metres and
climb a wall of black volcanic rock that leads to a vast gully. From
here you can see a spectacular display of summits. Among them
are Chimbote, Pollera, Tupungatito, Sierra Bella and the west face
of the Tupungato Volcano.
Following the path, you arrive at the Baños del Tupungato, a natural
pool of dubious-looking thermal water. Here you turn right and
continue, ascending in some stretches, until arriving at a sector
known as “Mal Paso” due to the numerous streams that you have
to cross. ApC2 (3,230 m) is set up in the place known as Vega de
los Flojos, at the foot of the Sierra Bella moraine. To get here it is
necessary to climb up quite loose scree slopes. While it is a quite
wet area, the only reliable sources of water are the streams and
springs found at the highest point of the marshland.
From ApC2, the path disappears amongst stones and you re-take
it on the south slope at the start of the moraine of the Sierra Bella
Glacier. At this point the river is just a stream and you should cross
it every once in a while. After a few hours walking, the path leaves
the valley, turns south and follows a nameless stream through the
foothills of the Tupungato Volcano. The route arrives at the Los
Españoles camp-site (4,420 m) where you can set up ApC3. However,
if you have time, it is recommended to continue until the area known
as EL Hito, where you can establish the AdvancedBC (4,790 m).
Here there is abundant water and you can see the ascent route,
which acts as a great motivation. Generally the muleteers can
advance only until this point. |
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From Advanced BC, the ascent starts on the left side of a field of
penitentes. On arriving at a plateau, it is necessary to turn left to
take a ridge. This leads to an area known as Piedra del Guanaco
(5,530 m) that has some terraces with rocks of curious shapes. Here
you can set up C1.
If you still have time and energy after the long day’s journey, it is
recommended to continue on the ridge until an area of wide terraces
known as Argentinos (5,760 m) where you can set up the HC. Here
you have a good view of what will be the final route of the ascent.
From the HC, start to climb on the ridge to the right of the snow
field until you almost start walking on the snow field. From here,
go to the couloir that is on the left side of a very tall square rock.
Continue the ascent on the thin, loose scree slope inside this couloir.
Its gradient is an average of about 40º. Once you leave the couloir
you can see false summits on both the left and right hand sides.
Continue the route towards the south-east, staying as high as
possible, until you reach a plateau from where you can see the
rounded north summit. The south summit (the main summit) can
be reached by going down and up the next hillock.
The descent can be carried out using the same route and has no
major difficulties except for the area of rocks that is between the
snow field and the couloir.
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• No special permits are required to climb the Tupungato Volcano
but you do need a permit to enter the El Alfalal hydro-electric
plant and to cross private land owned by the Army (called Rio
Colorado). For this you must first ask the permission of the Jefatura
de Propiedades del Comando de Infraestructura del Ejército,
Departamento de Predios (Santo Domingo 3317, Santiago, phone
2-3777214, fax 2-3777133). Send a copy to Max Mardones of
the company AES Gener (phone 2-6868140, fax 2-6808131). It
is recommended to do this some time in advance.
• You should also inform the police in San José de Maipo of your
expedition, giving them a letter showing participants, nationalities,
passport or ID numbers, details of activities and specific itineraries,
dates, route and a map of the area. As the mountain is on the
border, foreigners require permission from DIFROL (www.difrol.cl).
• The best transport option is to take a 4x4 vehicle. See appendix
for recommendations.
• If you have mules it is recommended to set up CAp1 at the site
found about 100 metres after Baños Azules, where there is more
food for the animals.
• It is recommended to take equipment and clothing suitable for
high altitude mountaineering. As part of the equipment it is
recommended to take an ice axe and crampons.
• It is recommended to take mules to transport the equipment
during the approach and the return journey. Jacinto Ortega is
the most experienced muleteer in the area. He lives in the town
of Maitenes (before Alfalfal) and it is necessary to organise things
with him before your expedition takes place.
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